Milan - Gianfranco Ferre, oft described as the architect of fashion, saw his label and ideas rebuilt lovingly Sunday in Milan at the debut show by the house's new design duo Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi.
In what was definitely Milan's most anticipated show this week the duo concentrated their skills on two key facets of Ferre's oeuvre - his famed architectural volumes and the late designer's unique sense of grand, ruffled style.
Curiously, the Ferre it most recalled to mind was Gianfranco's fertile, and grandest period, as couturier of Christian Dior, back in the early Nineties. But the use of exceptional fabrics, sense of haute gamme novelty and experimental cutting were all very much in synch with Gianfanco's DNA.
From the first look, a technical silk shirt and white organza shirt, both of them mega ruffled, it was clear that Aquilano and Rimondi had delved deep into the house's huge archives.
Their opening looks were too weighed down with Plexiglas accoutrements, but the show suddenly hit its stride with sculpted dresses, kicked up with huge flayed pockets, and lovingly embroidered with tough "samurai" trim. One splendid gray bustier dress with inverted pocket fins was the best cocktail we've seen on any runway this season.
Ferre was also loved for his majestic white blouses and this show had plenty of great examples - staggered ruffled organza shirts with elegance and sophistication.
Several exceptional passages mimicked Yoroi armor with horizontal cords that looked laminated and shoulder fins. And the tailoring - from Pagoda shouldered tops to silk suits with patent leather shoulders - was very much in the Ferre groove.
Paired with some remarkable shoes with semi-circular see-through plastic heels, and chunky Lucite bracelets, the look was suitably exotic, and in the current zeitgeist mock futurist. It's true that the silhouette did recall the whole obsession with power Eighties dressing we have seen in New York and Milan, but being in step with your time is never a bad thing,
"Architecture, beauty and perfection," was how one half of the duo, Aquilano, described the collection to FWD.
You could sense a new broom had swept through Ferre walking into the house's fine via Pontaccio show space. Where previously Gianfranco staged shows in a black-walled space with an awkward "H" shaped catwalk, this season all was white in art theatre setting, where the models did a circular tour. Ferre's Achilles Heel was a weakness for long and rambling shows, but this was tightly edited to just 40 looks, and the music, by DJ Michel Gaubert, was a suitably quirky selection of minimalist trance sounds.
Not everything worked; especially some openers, where the cut and silhouette were just a tad too far fetched, and the obsession with Plexiglas was, well, a tad perplexing. Plus, the attempt to mimic the show's architectural forms with twisted hair structure just made the models look too weird for the actual clothes.
It's also true that Aquilano and Rimondi did not receive a standing ovation, more a respectful and long applause. But revamping Ferre for the 21st century was always going to be a tricky task; and these guys look like they have the design chops and panache to do it.
If anything made that seem certain it was a particularly cool looked worn by model Suvi, a cotton, layered blouse with double pocket black pants, which said loud and clear this duo will respect and get the Ferre DNA, but also take it somewhere excitingly new.
NOTE:
fashionable sunglasses designed
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