A cape is a type of clothing, and can be used to describe any sleeveless outer garment, such as a poncho, but usually it is a long garment that covers only the back half of the wearer, fastening about the neck. They were common in medieval Europe, especially when combined with a hood in the chaperon, and have had periodic returns to fashion, for example in nineteenth century Europe. Roman Catholic clergy wear a type of cape known as a ferraiolo, which is worn for formal events outside of a liturgical context. The cope is a liturgical vestment in the form of a cape. Copes are often highly decorated with elaborate embroidery.
Capes remain in regular use as rain wear in various military units and police forces, for example in France and the United Kingdom. A gas cape was a voluminous military garment designed to give rain protection to someone wearing the bulky gas masks used in twentieth century wars. In modern times, comic superheros such as Superman and Batman are often depicted wearing capes.
In fashionwear, the word cape usually refers to a shorter garment and cloak to a full-length version of the different types of garment, and although the two are sometimes used synonymously for full-length coverings, the shortest versions are never referred to as cloaks. The fashion cape does not cover the front to any appreciable degree. In rainwear, a cape is usually a long and roomy protective garment worn to keep one dry in the rain.
Evening capes
In full evening dress, ladies frequently use the cape as a fashion statement, or to protect the wearer or the fine fabrics of eveningwear from the elements, especially where a coat would crush—or hide—the garment. These capes may be short (over the shoulders or to the waist) or a full-length cloak. Short capes were usually made of or trimmed in fur; today fur is less acceptable as a fashion accessory but the fabric of an evening cape must be expensive, with an opulent lining and trim. Typical fabrics used are velvet, silk and satin. Capes are still authorized as an alternative to the more utilitarian trenchcoat for U.S. Army officers in mess dress.
NOTE:
2008年10月13日星期一
Cape
Haute couture
Haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted fashions. It originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worth's work, produced in Paris in the mid-nineteenth century. In modern France, haute couture is a "protected name" that can be used only by firms that meet certain well-defined standards. However, the term is also used loosely to describe all high-fashion custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in Paris or in other fashion capitals such as Milan, London, Rome, New York and Tokyo. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.
The term can refer to:
the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions
the fashions created
Legal status
In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris based in Paris, France. Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture. The criteria for haute couture were established in 1945 and updated in 1992.
To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules:
Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.
However, the term haute couture may have been misused by ready-to-wear brands since the late 1980s, so that its true meaning may have become blurred with that of prêt-à-porter (the French term for ready-to-wear fashion) in the public perception. Every haute couture house also markets prêt-à-porter collections, which typically deliver a higher return on investment than their custom clothing[citation needed]. In fact, much of the haute couture displayed at fashion shows today is rarely sold; it is created to enhance the prestige of the house[citation needed]. Falling revenues have forced a few couture houses to abandon their less profitable couture division and concentrate solely on the less prestigious prêt-à-porter. These houses, such as Italian designer Antonio Capucci, all of whom have their workshops in Italy, are no longer considered haute couture.
Many top designer fashion houses, such as Chanel, use the word for some of their special collections. These collections are often not for sale or they are very difficult to purchase. Sometimes, "haute couture" doesn't mean just creation of new models of cloth wear, but it's also a type of fine art, like any other ones, as sculpture, painting, music and more. Moreover, "haute couture" can even include all of the mentioned components.
History
French leadership in European fashion may perhaps be dated from the 18th century, when the art, architecture, music, and fashions of the French court at Versailles were imitated across Europe[citation needed]. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered fashion dolls dressed in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models.
As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations.
The couturier Charles Frederick Worth (October 13, 1826–March 10, 1895), is widely considered the father of haute couture as it is known today. Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing a portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth. Clients selected one model, specified colors and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready-to-wear clothing industry, which was also developing during this period.
Following in Worth's footsteps were Callot Soeurs, Patou, Poiret, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under the leadership of modern designers.
In the 1960s a group of young designers who had trained under men like Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, and Emanuel Ungaro. Japanese native and Paris-based Hanae Mori, a woman, was also successful in establishing her own line.
Lacroix is perhaps the most successful of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have included Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler.
For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer the main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes, and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. Excessive commercialization and profit-making can be damaging, however. Cardin, for example, licensed with abandon in the 1980s and his name lost most of its fashionable cachet when anyone could buy Cardin luggage at a discount store.
The 1960s also featured a revolt against established fashion standards by mods, rockers, and hippies, as well as an increasing internationalization of the fashion scene. Jet travel had spawned a jet set that partied—and shopped—just as happily in New York as in Paris. Rich women no longer felt that a Paris dress was necessarily better than one sewn elsewhere. While Paris is still pre-eminent in the fashion world, it is no longer the sole arbiter of fashion.
NOTE:
The term can refer to:
the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions
the fashions created
Legal status
In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris based in Paris, France. Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture. The criteria for haute couture were established in 1945 and updated in 1992.
To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules:
Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.
However, the term haute couture may have been misused by ready-to-wear brands since the late 1980s, so that its true meaning may have become blurred with that of prêt-à-porter (the French term for ready-to-wear fashion) in the public perception. Every haute couture house also markets prêt-à-porter collections, which typically deliver a higher return on investment than their custom clothing[citation needed]. In fact, much of the haute couture displayed at fashion shows today is rarely sold; it is created to enhance the prestige of the house[citation needed]. Falling revenues have forced a few couture houses to abandon their less profitable couture division and concentrate solely on the less prestigious prêt-à-porter. These houses, such as Italian designer Antonio Capucci, all of whom have their workshops in Italy, are no longer considered haute couture.
Many top designer fashion houses, such as Chanel, use the word for some of their special collections. These collections are often not for sale or they are very difficult to purchase. Sometimes, "haute couture" doesn't mean just creation of new models of cloth wear, but it's also a type of fine art, like any other ones, as sculpture, painting, music and more. Moreover, "haute couture" can even include all of the mentioned components.
History
French leadership in European fashion may perhaps be dated from the 18th century, when the art, architecture, music, and fashions of the French court at Versailles were imitated across Europe[citation needed]. Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered fashion dolls dressed in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models.
As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations.
The couturier Charles Frederick Worth (October 13, 1826–March 10, 1895), is widely considered the father of haute couture as it is known today. Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing a portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth. Clients selected one model, specified colors and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready-to-wear clothing industry, which was also developing during this period.
Following in Worth's footsteps were Callot Soeurs, Patou, Poiret, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under the leadership of modern designers.
In the 1960s a group of young designers who had trained under men like Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, and Emanuel Ungaro. Japanese native and Paris-based Hanae Mori, a woman, was also successful in establishing her own line.
Lacroix is perhaps the most successful of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have included Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler.
For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer the main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes, and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. Excessive commercialization and profit-making can be damaging, however. Cardin, for example, licensed with abandon in the 1980s and his name lost most of its fashionable cachet when anyone could buy Cardin luggage at a discount store.
The 1960s also featured a revolt against established fashion standards by mods, rockers, and hippies, as well as an increasing internationalization of the fashion scene. Jet travel had spawned a jet set that partied—and shopped—just as happily in New York as in Paris. Rich women no longer felt that a Paris dress was necessarily better than one sewn elsewhere. While Paris is still pre-eminent in the fashion world, it is no longer the sole arbiter of fashion.
NOTE:
Bow tie
The bow tie is a men's necktie popularly worn with formal attire, such as suits or dinner jackets. It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around the collar in a symmetrical manner such that the two opposite ends form loops. Ready-tied bow ties are available, in which the distinctive bow is sewn into shape and the band around the neck incorporates a clip. Some "clip-ons" dispense with the band altogether, instead clipping to the collar. The traditional bow tie, consisting of a strip of cloth one must tie, may be known as a "self-tie" bow tie to distinguish it. Bow ties may be made of silk, polyester, cotton, or a mixture of fabrics. Some fabrics (e.g., wool) are much less common for bow ties than for ordinary neckties.
Origin and History
The bow tie originated among Croatian mercenaries during the Prussian wars of the 17th century: the Croats used a scarf around the neck to hold together the opening of their shirts. This was soon adopted (under the name cravat, derived from the French for "Croat") by the upper classes in France, then a leader in fashion, and flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries. The French novelist Honoré de Balzac even wrote a book on the subject.
It is uncertain whether the cravat then evolved into the bow tie and necktie, or whether the cravat gave rise to the bow tie, which in turn led to the necktie.
Stereotypes of bow tie wearers
Bow ties tend to be associated with particular professions, such as architects, attorneys, university professors, and politicians. Pediatricians frequently wear bow ties. Infants can't grab them, and they don't get in places where they would be soiled.
In American culture, bow ties tend to be associated with either New England idyllic preppy culture or the culture of the white aristocratic South.
Bow ties are commonly seen in popular culture as items of sophistication, such as those stereotypically worn by professors in movies and fictional spy characters such as James Bond. However, they have also been adopted into the "uniform" of clowns and male strippers, and such associations have lent bow ties a less serious image. Therefore, the "bow tie" presents somewhat of an oxymoron or paradox to anyone trying to define a particular style to be attached to the bow tie.
Current
Although the necktie is more prominent in today's society, being seen at business meetings, formal functions, schools, and sometimes even at home, the bow tie is making a comeback with fun-formal events such as dinner, cocktail parties and nights out on the town. Bow ties are still popular with men of all ages in the American South. It is also still much more common to wear a bow tie with a dinner jacket than it is to wear a necktie with one; the latter, in fact, is technically incorrect.
The dress code of "black tie" requires a black bow tie. Most military mess dress incorporates a bow tie.
A pretied bow tie
Shown on the right is one style of "ready tied" bow tie; there is also a clip-on that does not go around the neck but clips to the collar points; these are the simplest type to put on, but are also considered somewhat of a faux pas. If choosing a "self-tie" bow tie, there are usually two shapes available: the "bat wing", which is parallel-sided like a cricket bat, and the "thistle", sometimes known as the "butterfly". An example of each can be seen above also. Which is worn is a matter of personal preference. Some other shapes do exist, for instance with pointed tips at both ends. Both of these are of the double-ended type, with both ends shaped; occasionally one still sees bow ties of the single-ended type, in which only one end flares out to give the batwing or thistle shape, and the other remains thin. To tie one of these requires careful consideration, to ensure the broader end finishes in front of the thinner one.
Designers
Leading designers of bow ties include Carrot & Gibbs, Charvet, Duchamp, Robert Charles and Paul Smith who are renowned for bow ties with interesting and colourful designs. Likewise designers Frederick Theak and CT Shirts are leaders in formal bow ties (black formal and white marcella bow ties). Within the UK, leading retailers of some of the aforementioned designers include Turnbull & Asser, John Lewis Partnership, House of Fraser, and Selfridges. Within the US retailers include the department stores Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, as well as noted specialty shops such as Brooks Brothers. With the growth of the Internet, many specialized bow retailers and mail order companies have appeared online carrying a wide selection previously seen by many traditional retailers as too broad. These include such major sites as 319 Men's "CharlestonBows.Com", R. Hanauer's "Bowties.Com", BeauTies Ltd. of Vermont's "beautiesltd.com", and the popular Ben Silver. Lee Allison, of Chicago, creates bow ties with whimsical motifs, such as foozball men, as well as more traditional patterns.
Bow tie shapes in corporate logos
Some logos for popular product have incorporated bow tie shapes:
Budweiser beer had a bow tie logo in the 20th century that resembled overlapping red triangles.
Chevrolet vehicles[3] have worn the iconic bow tie logo since 1913.
Playboy Enterprises has a rabbit sporting a bow tie for logo.
NOTE:
Origin and History
The bow tie originated among Croatian mercenaries during the Prussian wars of the 17th century: the Croats used a scarf around the neck to hold together the opening of their shirts. This was soon adopted (under the name cravat, derived from the French for "Croat") by the upper classes in France, then a leader in fashion, and flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries. The French novelist Honoré de Balzac even wrote a book on the subject.
It is uncertain whether the cravat then evolved into the bow tie and necktie, or whether the cravat gave rise to the bow tie, which in turn led to the necktie.
Stereotypes of bow tie wearers
Bow ties tend to be associated with particular professions, such as architects, attorneys, university professors, and politicians. Pediatricians frequently wear bow ties. Infants can't grab them, and they don't get in places where they would be soiled.
In American culture, bow ties tend to be associated with either New England idyllic preppy culture or the culture of the white aristocratic South.
Bow ties are commonly seen in popular culture as items of sophistication, such as those stereotypically worn by professors in movies and fictional spy characters such as James Bond. However, they have also been adopted into the "uniform" of clowns and male strippers, and such associations have lent bow ties a less serious image. Therefore, the "bow tie" presents somewhat of an oxymoron or paradox to anyone trying to define a particular style to be attached to the bow tie.
Current
Although the necktie is more prominent in today's society, being seen at business meetings, formal functions, schools, and sometimes even at home, the bow tie is making a comeback with fun-formal events such as dinner, cocktail parties and nights out on the town. Bow ties are still popular with men of all ages in the American South. It is also still much more common to wear a bow tie with a dinner jacket than it is to wear a necktie with one; the latter, in fact, is technically incorrect.
The dress code of "black tie" requires a black bow tie. Most military mess dress incorporates a bow tie.
A pretied bow tie
Shown on the right is one style of "ready tied" bow tie; there is also a clip-on that does not go around the neck but clips to the collar points; these are the simplest type to put on, but are also considered somewhat of a faux pas. If choosing a "self-tie" bow tie, there are usually two shapes available: the "bat wing", which is parallel-sided like a cricket bat, and the "thistle", sometimes known as the "butterfly". An example of each can be seen above also. Which is worn is a matter of personal preference. Some other shapes do exist, for instance with pointed tips at both ends. Both of these are of the double-ended type, with both ends shaped; occasionally one still sees bow ties of the single-ended type, in which only one end flares out to give the batwing or thistle shape, and the other remains thin. To tie one of these requires careful consideration, to ensure the broader end finishes in front of the thinner one.
Designers
Leading designers of bow ties include Carrot & Gibbs, Charvet, Duchamp, Robert Charles and Paul Smith who are renowned for bow ties with interesting and colourful designs. Likewise designers Frederick Theak and CT Shirts are leaders in formal bow ties (black formal and white marcella bow ties). Within the UK, leading retailers of some of the aforementioned designers include Turnbull & Asser, John Lewis Partnership, House of Fraser, and Selfridges. Within the US retailers include the department stores Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, as well as noted specialty shops such as Brooks Brothers. With the growth of the Internet, many specialized bow retailers and mail order companies have appeared online carrying a wide selection previously seen by many traditional retailers as too broad. These include such major sites as 319 Men's "CharlestonBows.Com", R. Hanauer's "Bowties.Com", BeauTies Ltd. of Vermont's "beautiesltd.com", and the popular Ben Silver. Lee Allison, of Chicago, creates bow ties with whimsical motifs, such as foozball men, as well as more traditional patterns.
Bow tie shapes in corporate logos
Some logos for popular product have incorporated bow tie shapes:
Budweiser beer had a bow tie logo in the 20th century that resembled overlapping red triangles.
Chevrolet vehicles[3] have worn the iconic bow tie logo since 1913.
Playboy Enterprises has a rabbit sporting a bow tie for logo.
NOTE:
Debutante Dress
A debutante dress is a white evening gown, accompanied by white gloves and pearls worn by young women at their debutante ball. Debutante balls were traditional coming of age celebrations for eligible young ladies ready to be presented to society as ready for marriage.History of the Debutante Gown
Required rules of dress
A young ladies gown was regulated by a set of meticulously defined rules which were strictly enforced. These rules varied from Monarchy to Monarchy and didn't always follow the fashion of the time. White was the preferred color for her gown, although soft colors such as ivory or eggshell were acceptable as long as they were over a white background. The headdress always included feathers and a veil although the number and size of the feathers varied with the time. Married women were required to wear a tiara.
Georgian Era
A young lady in a Georgian era debutante gown.
During the reign of King George III and Queen Charlotte, the debutante dress featured a hoop skirt and elaborate trimmings which included a single ostrich plume worn on the head, even though simple dresses with high waists were favored. During the reign of King George IV, the hoop skirt was excluded and the style for a debutante gown became a variation of whatever was considered popular for formal evening wear during the period.
Victorian Era
For a young woman of this time, It was not an un-common practice for women to have their debutante gown modified into a wedding dress. These gowns were often made with two different bodices, one being for the presentation and the other one for her wedding. The dresses of this time were almost always short-sleeved and had to have a low neckline. However a doctor's certificate could be presented at the time stating that low cut was injurious to the young woman's health.
Queen Victoria was said to have hated small feathers, so orders were sent out that Her Majesty wished to see the feathers.
Mrs. Ethel McLaughlin in her 1904 court dress showing the Prince of Wales plume
as the young lady approached. Late in Queen Victoria's reign and into the court of Edward VII, the necessary headdress was three feathers arranged in a Prince of Wales plume. A center feather slightly higher than the two on each side worn slightly on the left side of the head.
For young ladies and women to be presented who were in mourning, it was acceptable for their dresses and veils to be black. No matter how cold the weather was on this special day, absolutely no cloaks, shawls, capes, or wraps of any kind were permitted to be worn. Those items remained in the lady's carriage.
NOTE:
ems,dhl,ups,tnt,fedex,worldwide express
2008年10月9日星期四
Exploding trousers
In New Zealand in the 1930s, farmers reportedly had trouble with exploding trousers as a result of attempts to wipe out the weed ragwort. Farmers had been spraying sodium chlorate, a government recommended weedkiller, onto the ragwort, and some of the spray had ended up on their clothes. Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizing agent, and reacted with the organic fibres (i.e. the wool and the cotton) of the clothes. Reports had farmers' trousers variously smouldering and bursting into flame, particularly when exposed to heat or naked flames. One report had trousers that were hanging on a washing line starting to smoke. There were also several reports of trousers exploding while farmers were wearing them, causing severe burns. The mystery of the exploding breeches was solved by James Watson of Massey University, New Zealand, whose research found that sodium chlorate becomes violently explosive when combined with organic fibres, such as cotton or wool. For his research, Mr. Watson was awarded the 2005 IgNobel Prize in agricultural history. On television The popular U.S. television show MythBusters investigated the idea that trousers could explode based on the events of New Zealand in the 1930s. Experimenters tested four substances on 100% cotton overalls: A paste comprising a mixture of gunpowder and water (since gunpowder by itself does not cling to clothing) An (un-named) "herbicide from the 1930s" An (un-named) "fertilizer from the 1930s" (this was most likely ammonium nitrate, the bottle was in the foreground of the shot and the label was facing the camera). An acid (to make nitrocellulose/guncotton) Each of these were put to four different ignition methods: flame, radiant heat, friction and impact. Although not naming "the herbicide" as sodium chlorate, they confirmed that trousers would indeed vigorously combust due to flame, radiant heat and impact (but not friction). However, combustion is not the same as an explosion, which requires compression and a detonation. Even so, a person witnessing such an event (especially if he or she were wearing the trousers) would likely describe the event as an explosion. The tests also revealed that none of the other three substances caused combustion of the trousers, thus indicating that sodium chlorate was almost certainly responsible for the events that occurred.[4] ABC's The Science Show described exploding trousers as "the scenario for a Goon Show"[2], and, in an example of art imitating life, it actually was. The Goons wrote a script about a chemical which "when applied to the tail of a military soldier shirt, is tasteless, colourless, and odourless" but that "The moment the wearer sits down, the heat from his body causes the chemical to explode.". In the final episode of Blackadder Goes Forth, Captain Edmund Blackadder says that he's "Off to Hartlepool to buy a pair of exploding trousers" when feigning madness to avoid going Over the top. NOTE:
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ALUMINIUM TILING TRIM
Leather Heel Liners
Hand Bag Hook
Branded Sports Shirt
Induction Cap Liners
Marine Brake Linings
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amry unifroms tassels
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Auto Lock Buckle
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cotton sequenced blouse
armani suits shirts
armani formal suit
Glass Beads Tassel
armored power cords
authentic tommy hilfiger
ALUMINIUM TILING TRIM
Leather Heel Liners
Hand Bag Hook
Branded Sports Shirt
Induction Cap Liners
Marine Brake Linings
versace dress shirts
vrious of shirt
SGP Tube Size
amith dress shirts
amry unifroms tassels
aluminum liquid tight
all polo shirts
Auto Lock Buckle
Vinyl Roll Lace
Decorative Wall Trim
Purse n' Hook
Velour Sweat Suit
Ladies' Business Suits
meta-aramid working suit
zegna designer suit
xxxxx xxxxx button
yarn dyed shirts
abercrombie kid-t shirt
Kurta
This article is about item of clothing. For the village in Georgia, see Kurta, Georgia. A traditional cotton Chikan embroidery kurta with wooden cuff-links-style buttons A kurta (Persian/Urdu: کرتا, Hind, Bengali: , also called a panjabi in Bengali) (or kurti, (feminine - women wear kurti) for a shorter version of the kurta) is a traditional item of clothing worn in Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. It is a loose shirt falling either just above or somewhere below the knees of the wearer, and is worn by both men and women. It can be worn with a dhoti, loose salwar pants, churidar pants (a tight-fitting variant of the salwar), as well as jeans. Kurtas are worn both as casual everyday wear and as formal dress. Western women often wear inexpensive imported kurtis as blouses, usually over jeans. These kurtis are typically much shorter than the traditional garments and made with a lighter materials, like those used in sewing kameez. Imported kurtas were fashionable in the 1960s and 1970s, as an element of hippie fashion, fell from favor briefly, and are now again fashionable. South Asian women may also wear this Western adaptation of South Asian fashion. Formal kurtas are usually custom-made by South Asian tailors, who work with the fabric their customers bring them. South Asians overseas, and Westerners, can buy them at South Asian clothing stores or order them from web retailers. // Styles A traditional kurta is composed of rectangular fabric pieces with perhaps a few gusset inserts, and is cut so as to leave no wasted fabric. The cut is usually simple, although decorative treatments can be elaborate. The sleeves of a traditional kurta fall straight to the wrist; they do not narrow, as do many Western-cut sleeves. Sleeves are not cuffed, just hemmed and decorated. The front and back pieces of a simple kurta are also rectangular. The side seams are left open for 6-12 inches above the hem, which gives the wearer some ease of movement. The kurta usually opens in the front; some styles, however, button at the shoulder seam. The front opening is often a hemmed slit in the fabric, tied or buttoned at the top; some kurtas, however, have plackets rather than slits. The opening may be centered on the chest, or positioned off center. A traditional kurta does not have a collar. Modern variants may feature stand-up collars of the type known to tailors and seamstresses as "mandarin" collars. These are the same sort of collars seen on achkans, sherwanis, and Nehru jackets.Materials Kurtas worn in the summer months are usually made of thin silk or cotton fabrics; winter season kurtas are made of thicker fabric such as wool (as in Kashmiri kurtas) or Khadi silk, a thick, coarse, handspun and handwoven silk that may be mixed with other fibers. Kurtas are typically fastened with tasseled ties, cloth balls and loops, or buttons. Ready-made kurtas often avoid the use of horn buttons, in deference to Hindu sentiments; such buttons are frequently made from cow or buffalo hooves or horns. Buttons are often wood or plastic. Kurtas worn on formal occasions might feature decorative metal buttons, which are not sewn to the fabric, but, like cufflinks, are fastened into the cloth when needed. Such buttons can be decorated with jewels, enameling, and other traditional jewelers' techniques. Decoration South Asian tailors command a vast repertoire of methods, traditional and modern, for decorating fabric. It is likely that all of them have been used, at one time or another, to decorate kurtas. However, the most common decoration is embroidery. Many light summer kurtas feature Chikan embroidery around the hems and front opening. This embroidery is typically executed on light, semi-transparent fabric in a matching thread. The effect is ornate but subtle. NOTE:
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embroidered cotton shirts
bow snap hook
steel snap hook
men's christmas socks
christmas toe socks
Crochet Scarf Tassels
Silk Kimono Robes
mens christmas socks
Ladies Loungewear Robes
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Jacquard Ribbon Trims
Rubber Outsole Lining
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wide embroidered lace
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manual alarm button
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Mandarin collar
U.S. Army soldier shown wearing the new Army Combat Uniform (ACU) uniform with the coat's mandarin collar worn in the upright position as required when wearing protective combat gear. Note the wearing of the black beret, which is normally worn in garrison.
A mandarin collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. Mandarin collars start at the neckline and typically rise vertically two to five centimeters. The style originated from Western interpretation of Manchurian dresses.
The length along a mandarin collar is straight, with either straight or rounded edges at top of the centre front. The edges of the collar either barely meet at the centre front or overlap slightly. Overlapping mandarin collars are often a continuation of a shirt's placket and have a button on the collar to secure the two sides of the shirt together.
Related nomenclature
A nearly identical style known as the Nehru collar is also found in some modern Indian men's clothing, such as the Nehru jacket. (Named for Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India 1947–1964, who commonly wore clothing with this type of collar.)
A band collar is often a mandarin collar. This term is also used for shirts that have only a flat finishing around the neckline; originally such garments were designed for use with a detachable collar, a largely-forgotten usage.
Usage
In contemporary Western dress, mandarin collars are found in fashion-forward oriental-style and minimalist-style clothing. Women's mandarin-collared jackets often include other vaguely oriental elements, such as silk knots as closures instead of buttons.
Since mandarin collars are short and do not fold over, neckties are not worn with mandarin-collared dress shirts. It is socially acceptable (and fashionable) to wear a mandarin-collared shirt with a suit at many moderately formal occasions — even though no tie is worn. This lack of ties has led to the recent rising popularity of mandarin collars in the post-dotcom casual era. [1]
Mandarin collars are also utilised heavily in modern-day military combat uniforms like the US Army's Army Combat Uniform and the US Marine Corps' MARPAT uniforms. The presence of the mandarin collar on the Army Combat Uniform and the MARPAT uniforms makes the wearing of body armor more comfortable by lifting the collar up while the wearer is wearing body armor.
Mandarin collars are also the proper shape for a single- (or sometimes, but rarely, double- ) breasted Greek cassock, or anterri, for Eastern Catholic and Eastern Orthodox clergy. Russians and other Slavic Churches typically have a high, band-style collar, buttoning to the side or on the shoulder, while Greeks have the "notched" Mandarin pattern with a closing loop or hook at the bottom of the "V" in the collar. This is different from the more stereotypical square, "Roman" collar of the western cassock seen on clergy of the Latin Rite and some Eastern Churches, such as the Syriac Catholic Church and Ethiopic Catholic Church.
Lastly, mandarin collars feature in costumes in some notable films, where they are employed either as a futuristic style fashion or to create a distinctive appearance for sinister characters. For example, the title character in the 1962 film Dr. No, parodied by Doctor Evil in the Austin Powers series of films. Ichigo from the Japanese anime series Bleach wears a Mandarin collar as his school uniform.
During the collapse of Qing Dynasty in the early 20th century of China, Sun Yat-Sen wanted to create a clothing representating the identity of the Han people, he made a suit named after him "Zhong Shan Suit" or better known in as Mao suit. This suit still retained the mandarin collar.
NOTE:
A mandarin collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. Mandarin collars start at the neckline and typically rise vertically two to five centimeters. The style originated from Western interpretation of Manchurian dresses.
The length along a mandarin collar is straight, with either straight or rounded edges at top of the centre front. The edges of the collar either barely meet at the centre front or overlap slightly. Overlapping mandarin collars are often a continuation of a shirt's placket and have a button on the collar to secure the two sides of the shirt together.
Related nomenclature
A nearly identical style known as the Nehru collar is also found in some modern Indian men's clothing, such as the Nehru jacket. (Named for Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India 1947–1964, who commonly wore clothing with this type of collar.)
A band collar is often a mandarin collar. This term is also used for shirts that have only a flat finishing around the neckline; originally such garments were designed for use with a detachable collar, a largely-forgotten usage.
Usage
In contemporary Western dress, mandarin collars are found in fashion-forward oriental-style and minimalist-style clothing. Women's mandarin-collared jackets often include other vaguely oriental elements, such as silk knots as closures instead of buttons.
Since mandarin collars are short and do not fold over, neckties are not worn with mandarin-collared dress shirts. It is socially acceptable (and fashionable) to wear a mandarin-collared shirt with a suit at many moderately formal occasions — even though no tie is worn. This lack of ties has led to the recent rising popularity of mandarin collars in the post-dotcom casual era. [1]
Mandarin collars are also utilised heavily in modern-day military combat uniforms like the US Army's Army Combat Uniform and the US Marine Corps' MARPAT uniforms. The presence of the mandarin collar on the Army Combat Uniform and the MARPAT uniforms makes the wearing of body armor more comfortable by lifting the collar up while the wearer is wearing body armor.
Mandarin collars are also the proper shape for a single- (or sometimes, but rarely, double- ) breasted Greek cassock, or anterri, for Eastern Catholic and Eastern Orthodox clergy. Russians and other Slavic Churches typically have a high, band-style collar, buttoning to the side or on the shoulder, while Greeks have the "notched" Mandarin pattern with a closing loop or hook at the bottom of the "V" in the collar. This is different from the more stereotypical square, "Roman" collar of the western cassock seen on clergy of the Latin Rite and some Eastern Churches, such as the Syriac Catholic Church and Ethiopic Catholic Church.
Lastly, mandarin collars feature in costumes in some notable films, where they are employed either as a futuristic style fashion or to create a distinctive appearance for sinister characters. For example, the title character in the 1962 film Dr. No, parodied by Doctor Evil in the Austin Powers series of films. Ichigo from the Japanese anime series Bleach wears a Mandarin collar as his school uniform.
During the collapse of Qing Dynasty in the early 20th century of China, Sun Yat-Sen wanted to create a clothing representating the identity of the Han people, he made a suit named after him "Zhong Shan Suit" or better known in as Mao suit. This suit still retained the mandarin collar.
NOTE:
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